Nobler Reviews: The Mulberry ProjectOctober 24, 2011
A good cocktail must be linked to a few key descriptors. But “balance” in my mind is by far the most crucial.
At the Mulberry Project in Little Italy on Friday night, the artists behind the bar were feverishly mixing mind-blowing cocktails with no menus in sight. And while I am sure they can make an old-fashioned or a gin ricky as good as the next guy, that’s not the point at this underground establishment. With little more than a tempting chalkboard full of fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices acting as inspiration, individualized drinks are made to order. Like my bourbon, maple syrup, cayenne, and lime drink that blew me away, or the honey ginger vodka concoction that was so refreshing, it wasn’t until your legs got a little lighter you remembered its alcoholic content, these are real deal cocktails; balanced and delicious.
And I would have stayed until the chalkboard became too blurry to read if the ambiance hadn’t dictated otherwise. But unfortunately for our Nobler intentions, a Friday night at the Mulberry Project was a little too jacked up. Good looking, well dressed patrons in flickering candlelight doesn’t sound like much to complain about, but as the crowd packed in and the liquor flowed steadily, it quickly felt like so many other overpriced lounges in the city; a bit unbalanced.
I plan on heading back on a weeknight to see how my first impression holds up but until then, I’d say check it out for yourself. Go a bit early, be amazed by the cocktail wizardry and push on…
The Mulberry Project, 149 Mulberry St (btw Hester and Grand), Manhattan, NY