An Open LetterNovember 14, 2011
A cocktail is nothing without the proper vessel…
In an age where innovation and re-invention pummel our social standards, glassware has remained classic. A martini glass is and always will be. And you wouldn’t dare to drink a single malt out of a high ball. Yet, a terrifying trend has been ripping through the NYC bar scene. Strong, complex and enticing cocktails are being served in dainty and soft “champagne coupes”.
There are two fundamental issues at work here. One: more can be said about a person through their choice in drink than in their political persuasions. Are you a Jameson man or a Jäger dude? Do you love to be seen rocking a PBR tall boy or are you the most interesting man in the world? Regardless of your decisions and despite their natural or intended reactions, we are what we drink. Which is why the last thing my bourbon laced cocktail should be held by is a friggin’ coupe. In fact, no liquor deserves such treatment.
Issue number two is a bit more straightforward. I will never be a person that complains about a high-priced, well executed cocktail. Presumably, the $14 price tag comes with a decor and experience that warrants such a payment. But even I have my limits. A coupe is capable of providing a mere 5 oz when topped to the brim. When those 5 oz are champagne for a special toast, no problem. But when those 5 oz are my $14 cocktail…we’ve got issues. Some may argue that a strong and balanced drink needs no more than a few oz for enjoyment. I am not one of them. But for the sake of argument, do those 5 oz really deserve to be crammed to the very top of the glass only to be sloshed overboard by inevitability.
So to all of you bars and bartenders thrilled with your coupes, consider this your warning. I’ve just started a coup against your coupes!